DIY TANK - The beginning of a planted tank

Hey there!

I need some help in choosing a good silicon to use in a planted tank (exposed to CO2 and ferts)

I might be building my custom 2.5ft on my own so I don't want the tank to burst because the silicon is junk. What's a good (trusted) brand to use?

Has anyone used black marine silicon? I've seen tanks with these. Do they deteriorate in high concentration of CO2?

What are some of the ways to seal the tank neatly? Should I use masking tape so I have perfectly straight seals? What can I use to remove mess/silicone fingerprints from the glass once it has dried?

How long should the silicon cure for before I do a leak test?

TM

Tagged members
@Zoom , @Vis , @bees , @fishcrazy , @rixtrix

 

You can get black silicon, just not 100% sure where to get ti from. I believe the Prof might sell it.

Otherwise Bostik Marine should suffice.

I wouldn't use masking tape... when you peel it off you may just lift enough of the silicon to create a leak.

Tape the glass together on the opposite side that you are going to silicon, put on silicon, and smooth it out with a wettened finger. (If you like me, you will lick your finger, and then when you need to wet it again, you put it back in your mouth. Even though the label says toxic free.. it tasted bloody toxic to me!)

I would start first on the glass that is less visible, i.e the base, that way you get to practice a bit.

To remove silicon from fingers, just wipe well with toilet paper. (have a roll nearby). To remove off glass, let it dry, and peel it off. But try not to touch the glass... it isn't that difficult. The idea is to use one or 2 fingers, (usually ends up being the entire one hand) to touch the silicone, and keep the other hand completely dry of silicon. As much as you really want to get both your hands into the stuff, and just rub yourself in silicon, it ain't pretty afterwards!

Let silicon dry for a minimum of 24 hours before doing a leak test. (fill with water). Let it stand, ideally outside, for a while (2 or 3 days) to check. If you do suspect a leak. COMPLETELY STRIP, as a leak can originate anywhere in the tank.

Then some people recommend you to dry the tank out, and let is stand until you cannot smell the silicon anymore when you stick your head into the tank. (assuming you'll get your head into a 2.5ft?)

 

I watched this video on youtube . . . is this the way to do it?

Edit . . .sorry about that . .

​

 

you peel the masking tape away while the silicone is still wet, you get the neatest finish with masking tape.

 

TM , get some Den Braven Black Marine silicone (If you can get in durbs I could send you down a tube)...the best stuff on the market and the only stuff I use.

Also get a grouting toolkit from CTM (basically a few different silicone thingies cut at different angles) or Verimark , use that to get a nice clean and straight edge..MUCH less hassle than masking tape

 

Good trick I learned to smooth silicone by hand(although the tool Franssny mentioned works a charm) is to dip the smoothing finger into some Sunlight liquid....Presto,no silicone on fingers!!! Just wash the tank out well once dry to get rid of any trace of the soap....

 

Okay Thanks for the input so far

I was just wondering if Sikaflex (Spelling?) is aquarium safe? I heard of Reefers using this in their plumbing and bulkhead seals.

Just looked at some pdfs from Sika and saw the Sikaflex 291 and Sikaflex 292 . . .

But I read somewhere that it degrades in CO2 and I will be running a DIY CO2 reactor . . .

Might try the Den Braven. How is it packaged? Sounds exclusive, What's the price like?

 

Never used Sikaflex so I wont be able to comment. Den Braven comes in a normal big tube for use in a chaulking gun. Its not really "exclusive" just not that well known in SA . As I buy mine in box load I cant really comment on retail price though but I would guess 60 - 70 bucks a tube

 

Well I went onto the Den Braven site. Turns out that there is a Den Braven not 15min from me. I will have to ask them where I can buy a tube from.

TM

---------- Post added at 11:10 ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 ----------

Just give me the full name of that sealer . . .cant seem to find anything Marine related on the site

---------- Post added at 11:10 ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 ----------

Is it this http://www.denbraven.co.za/Neutral_Silicone_Sealants.htm

 

Nope you looking for this. I tried to reply to your PM...I can send you a tube if you dont come right

http://www.denbraven.nl/en/product-range/elastic-sealants/zwaluw-aqua-silicone

 

Okay, will I be able to buy just 1 tube of silicon From Den Braven or do I have to buy the box?

PM me now. Just cleaned out my inbox

Regards

@Franssny

 

Just for those girls and guys wanting to build your own tank but too afraid and don't know what thickness of glass you should use or what size glass to order for your DIY tank. . .

I used this calculator found on a fellow members website http://www.slojo.co.za/tank_build.htm but originally found here http://www.theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium

You can actually watch the Video on page one of this thread and see how easy it is to put together yourself.

Watch this Space . .

 

Just my 2c stay away from the diy CO2 or CO2 in gen (im opening a can of worms now) with really good lighting and good ferts u can get amazing plants growth i have had so much a few months ago that i had to donate plants almost on a weekly basis. Get good easy growers and dont waste or money with the diy CO2 its more pain than its worth if u cant get it perfect ur looking at an algae bloom. If u are on the other hand looking at growing some really hard to grow plants look at DIY CO2 not the coke bottle one but the CO2 cannisters etc. Hope this helps

 

Hey Snyper... yes you are opening up a can of worms here... Let me just put it this way.. your logic is correct, to a point... but even if you have "easy growers"... the more light you give, the more ferts you need... and at some point, the higher you go with either fertz or light, you will have to start putting in CO2.

In business you have the triple constraints of Scope vs Time vs Cost.... if you change one variant, at least one other will change. The same is with plants... the triple constraints is Ferts vs light vs CO2. Now everyone in business will know that the triple constraints is also Dependant on the quality product, service or result you wanting to achieve.... the same can be said of the plant constraints, however instead of using the quality, use TYPE OF PLANT.

 

+1 with zoom.. its not that you dont need CO2, its just some plants dont require so much of it but all plants do need CO2 for proper growth (rem photosynthesis?) there still has to be some form of it in your tank how ever small it is. wether it comes from your fish etc.

 

if you want the black silicon look which is very sleek and nice then get the den braven stuff very good, but just remember black silicon is far more messy than the clear stuff, so you would need to be super carefull when applying the stuff. if you do go with clear the normal bostick marine silicone is fine and not very expensive either, for the best silicone you would have to go with dow corning imo. well hope it works outs.

 

I love the look of the black silicon... But i have seen some stunning custom tanks where the person used a wooden bead on the outside of the corners varnished in the same colour as the cabinet. It seems to suddenly tie the entire hood and cabinet together so well!

 

Black silicone is actually easier to work with for me personally , it sets quicker and is stickier. You also see silicone mistakes quite easily and can fix before filling. Also looks way cooler...here is one I am busy with at the moment.



I have added the floating double base and the back pane today

 

Now that's what I'm talking about!

 

Thanx TM..should end something like this once I have installed it , put the lights etc.....this one I did for a client a few weeks ago