Planning my sump.

Discussion in 'General Equipment discussion' started by TomK, Mar 16, 2011.

  1. OP
    TomK

    TomK

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    haha, I see we are on my thread... tsk, tsk
     
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  3. OP
    TomK

    TomK

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    @fishkeeper

    The best I can do to explain what I have done is by showing pictures of the finished item. So here goes.

    This pic shows the heart of the overflow. Everything is sealed with silicone. It is imperative that no air can leak into the system. The other parts do not have to be silicon-ed, as it is either under water or part of the water flowing down to the sump and can not leak.

    [​IMG]

    This picture shows the complete thing, to give you an idea what it is all about. It hang like that on the back of your tank, short end in the tank, long side goes down on the outside into the sump inlet side.

    [​IMG]

    This pic shows the nipple with the air tubing. (Micro irrigation nipple) The nipple and air tubing is sealed with silicone. The nipple screw into the PVC pipe after you drilled a hole into the PVC, slightly thinner than the nipple. To prime the overflow, you pour water into the open pipe. The water seal this side of the pipe and the inlet is the other side, underneath water in the tank. You now suck the air out of the part between these two 'seals'. As soon as you get water in your mouth, all the air is sucked out and you bend the air tubing so it is sealed. I keep it bend like that with a clothes peg. If the water level in the tank is higher than the open part in the T, water starts flowing immediately. This is a crucial point. If it leaks air, the overflow will fail. So make sure it can not leak air! This looks like a siphon, but it is not. It is based on the level of water in the tank and the hight of the overflow into the down pipe. If the level in the tank rise, the level in the system rise. But it can not go higher than the overflow of the down pipe, as when it does, it flows down the pipe to the sump.

    [​IMG]

    Same thing, different angle. Also showing the inlet which is a piece of pipe drilled full of holes, to make sure your fish does not go down the drain! It is blocked at the end, with an end cap.

    [​IMG]

    View from top.

    [​IMG]

    Big picture again, different angle.

    [​IMG]

    Close up of nipple and air tubing.

    [​IMG]

    Optional spray bar that I build. I think you can recognize the parts used.

    [​IMG]

    Essential tools. The cutter is to cut the pipe, unless you want to battle with a hacksaw.

    [​IMG]

    So that is the story. Have fun, I did!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 2, 2016
  4. PappaBear

    PappaBear

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    I used irrigation polypipe to build mine, and it is working fine.

    I really enjoy this design, as you can "syphon" the water from the bottom of your tank, without modifying the tank or drilling any holes.
     
  5. OP
    TomK

    TomK

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    PappaBear, what is the diameter of the pipe and what is your pump delivering in terms of lt/h ? I would be interested in the actual lt/h, measured with a 1 lt container and stopwatch. The pump ratings is of no use.

    Why I ask, is I found with my adjustable pump, I can adjust the water level in my tank by turning the pump up or down. I can push it too high for the 37 mm pipe which then struggle to keep up and the tank level will rise, but stabilize at a higher level and vice versa.
     
  6. PappaBear

    PappaBear

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    @TomK I am still busy with my setup, not operational yet. Only built one overflow and tested it on a bucket. I have a big pump, but it will be split into 3 or 4, as I will have multiple tanks on my sump. Have a hectic week at work so won't be able to work on the project again before the weekend.....
     
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  7. OP
    TomK

    TomK

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    @PappaBear
    Excellent project. Keep us posted and remember the pics!
     
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  8. fishkeeper

    fishkeeper

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    Thanks so much tomk!!!! I can build that! Just one more question what thickness(diameter) is the pvc pipe you using?
     
  9. RFSwanepoel

    RFSwanepoel

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    U didn't ask me But I would say 50mm

     
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    TomK

    TomK

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    It is 40mm OD (Outside Diameter) You will see I sometimes talk about 37 mm. That is the ID (Inside Diameter) of the narrowest part in the bends and T-piece. So, effectively your ID is 37 mm. But you buy 40 mm pipe and fittings.

    That is what I used. If you have a weaker pump, you can go for a smaller diameter. Do you have your pump yet? If not, let us discuss it before you buy. If you have one, measure the lt p/h by timing how long it takes the pump to fill a container of which the capacity is known, like 1 or 5 lt. Give the seconds it takes to fill this. Hold the container as high as your tanks level and the pump at the level where it will be in the sump. The levels make a huge difference.
     
  11. fishkeeper

    fishkeeper

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    No i do not have a pump i am going to be buying one so your help would be greatly aprciated! I also found a 1.8m tank with cabernet for a bargain! R1200 so this is going to be a practice to build a big sump for that tank!
     
  12. PappaBear

    PappaBear

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    Buying a fishtank and getting some wine to sweeten the deal: PRICELESS!!!
     
  13. OP
    TomK

    TomK

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    Good, look around at what you can get, that suits your budget. Try and find one where you can adjust the flow rate. This comes in handy when you want to adjust something for some reason. Like I do with the water level in my tank. Whether it will work for you, like that, in your case, depends if you (we) can pick the correct diameter pipe for you. Mine was pure luck!

    Edit: Do not buy yet. Come tell us your options and their specs. Just remind us again as well, size of tank and sump.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012
  14. fishkeeper

    fishkeeper

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    well for now its a going to be a small sump for the 3ft tank! But when i get the bigger tank i'm hopin that a 100lt sump will do the job! As for pumps aslong as building this works me out cheaper than a canister filter its worth it! What size is the tank you runing this set up on?

    Cause im just going to be needing a sump that will keep my malawi tank nice and clean! The sump mesurments are 460lx300hx300w is this to small to make a sump out for a 100lt tank?
     
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    TomK

    TomK

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    Your sump will be 41 lt capacity. Sounds good. What is the dimensions of your tank. Your overflow will drain +-60 mm water in case of a power failure. We must work out to what level you can fill your sump to be able to hold this extra water without flooding the room.
     
  16. RFSwanepoel

    RFSwanepoel

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    Build the whole thing with 50mm extra above your highest compartment.
     
  17. RFSwanepoel

    RFSwanepoel

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    Also a thought drill 2 small holes in the pipe inside the tank 15mm under your desired water level this would cause air to flow into the pipe when the water level reaches the holes and you will only lose a MAX of 15mm water flowing back to your sump in the outage or pump failure.
     
  18. OP
    TomK

    TomK

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    @fishkeeper, you also have to decide what the design of your sump is going to be. Are you going the down, up, down and pump out route, or a straight through 'big bore' flow like I did?

    Do a drawing showing tank and sump with compartments, so we can see what you want to do.
     
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  19. OP
    TomK

    TomK

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    Noooo! If you do this, you will break your 'siphon' and when the power comes back on, your overflow will not work and your tank will overflow, your sump pumped dry and pump burned out!

    RFS, you are not reading. Go do your homework! lol!
     
  20. RFSwanepoel

    RFSwanepoel

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    LOL I actually missed the point there it's on the return pipe not the overflow pipe. If you don't break the flow on the return line it could suck your tank empty.
    OOPSY :)
    Not on the out but on the in

     
  21. RFSwanepoel

    RFSwanepoel

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    Also when you want to buy your return pump
    make sure you compensate for head-loss.

    Calculator
     

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